Question:
So, for about two weeks I've been anxiously awaiting the arrival of my TS-9 Tubescreamer I bought from a guy on Craigslist. After reading so much about the alleged virtues of this pedal, yesterday it finally arrived. I scurried home, practically ran to hook it up, started playing, and...
Nothing. Of course, it didn't work. Here's what it did: when the pedal is "off" (LED indicator off), the signal passes through unaffected, just like any other pedal. When the pedal is "on" (LED indicator on), no signal passes through at all. It's not just that the pedal fails to apply the effect to the signal, the pedal stops all signal altogether when it is on. I tried everything I could think of (different AC adapters, using 9 volt battery instead of AC, etc.), and nothing changed the result. I also opened it up but couldn't see any unattached wires or anything obvious.
I know that many of you on here have forgotten more than I will ever know about electronics, so my question is: do you have any idea what might be wrong with it? Obviously, I'm sending it back to the guy, but just for future reference, what might be the problem?
Answer:
It is obviously true bypass. This is why you can still get a signal when it remains off. When you engage it however, it sends the signal through the pedal. Theres something amiss as far as your circutry is concerned, something isn't connected..or a component is faulty. What's odd however, is that the Reissues were never bypass. I don't think the original was either. Your "friend" probably had a mod done that didn't go as planned, but achieved true bypass. Thus, tried to sell it. Just my first impression.
Answer:
Originally Posted by omensixaxe It is obviously true bypass. This is why you can still get a signal when it remains off. When you engage it however, it sends the signal through the pedal. Theres something amiss as far as your circutry is concerned, something isn't connected..or a component is faulty. What's odd however, is that the Reissues were never bypass. I don't think the original was either. Your "friend" probably had a mod done that didn't go as planned, but achieved true bypass. Thus, tried to sell it. Just my first impression.
Check all the solder joints, make sure no wires are loose. Also, see if there are any components that have been "fried".
Answer:
Originally Posted by omensixaxe It is obviously true bypass. This is why you can still get a signal when it remains off. When you engage it however, it sends the signal through the pedal. Theres something amiss as far as your circutry is concerned, something isn't connected..or a component is faulty. What's odd however, is that the Reissues were never bypass. I don't think the original was either. Your "friend" probably had a mod done that didn't go as planned, but achieved true bypass. Thus, tried to sell it. Just my first impression. actually, I think this is a common misconception about true bypass. I've owned two Dunlop Crybaby wahs...and one of them do the same thing (signal through when off, signal off when "on"). As far as I know Dunlop wahs are not true bypass either and I'm certain that neither of my wahs have been modded as such.
Answer:
Given the fact that you get signal when its off tells me the jacks are functional, all that's left is the circuitry in the unit. The only thing I can think of that might be user-reparable is if there is a broken solder joint on the level contol, which probably farily common. I wouldn't supect the other controls as much, as I don't think the tone or gain pot would cause no sound, but look at them too. Stomp it on, and then turn the control back and forth - all the way. Do you hear anything? Gently bounce the whole unit a bit with the level halfway up, anything? Usually a broken joint will be a kind of in/out thing, bouncing/jarring it often will cause it to go in/out. You could also look inside the unit, at the bottom of the PC board where the level control's terminations are soldered. Use a magnifying glass with a lot of light, a broken joint will look like a tiny circular hairline crack.
Answer:
Originally Posted by plawren53202 When the pedal is "on" (LED indicator on), no signal passes through at all. It's not just that the pedal fails to apply the effect to the signal, the pedal stops all signal altogether when it is on.
Maybe that's an "undocumented feature"
Answer:
Originally Posted by Funky 1 Maybe that's an "undocumented feature" Oops, I accidentally bought the Ibanez TS-9 Tubestopper rather than the Tubescreamer =)
Actually, I've already talked to the guy and he's going to refund my money. But I just wondered if anyone had ever heard of this.
Answer:
Thats bizzare. I've never heard of that...are you sure its not some generic clone by another manufacturer?.....Because tubestopper sounds so much more appealing over tubescreamer.
Answer:
Originally Posted by omensixaxe Thats bizzare. I've never heard of that...are you sure its not some generic clone by another manufacturer?.....Because tubestopper sounds so much more appealing over tubescreamer.
The pedal is *not* true bypass. Your problem lies somewhere between the flipflop circuits. It could be anything, but I'd nearly guarantee a cracked solder joint.
Also, true bypass isn't determined by whether or not the pedal can be played when it is in its 'off' state w/ no power. True bypass is determined by whether or not the signal passes directly through without any change or degradation of signal (be it impedance or otherwise) when the pedal is off.
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/bypass/bypass.htm for more info
Take care,
Brian